Sagers Soehne
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ETA 6498 Decoration Pt. 3

3/8/2008

2 Comments

 

Movement Finishing
There are 3 main elements to the movement finishing that I do.  First, Côtes de Genève.  Second, perlage.  Third, bluing the screws.  This entry will describe the perlage process.

Perlage
Of the three movement decorations, perlage is probably the easiest to do.  I use a benchtop drill press and a 1/4" Cratex tip on a mandrel.  But there are multiple ways to do it.

Before doing anything with the 6498, I practiced with some brass discs to get a feel for how the perlage shows up.  I also experimented with the Cratex.  I sanded some of the tips down to a 3mm - 4mm diameter to produce smaller perlage.

On to the movement itself...I started on the outside edge and worked my way to the center.  I overlapped each circle about 1/2 way into the previous circle.  I like that the result isn't perfect.  To me, I believe, it adds to the handmade quality of the watch.  Perlage done by CNC machines are spaced perfectly, which is fine, but I much prefer the unique pattern of the perlage when applied by hand.  This will make each movement I decorate even more unique.

2 Comments
Ivan
11/12/2014 09:46:41 pm

I'm really inspired and amazed at your work that i want to try it too. Just to know, is your cratex Extra fine quality and straight cylinder shaped? Also, how exactly do you shape the cratex?

Reply
Erich
11/18/2014 04:08:46 am

Ivan, I bought an assortment of grits. I believe I used fine and extra fine mostly. I shaped and reshaped the tip w/ 150 grit sandpaper while it was spinning in the drill.

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    Ok...so I like watches. I like them enough to make them myself.  Enjoy.

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  • Home
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